A septum piercing goes through the soft tissue between your nostrils, not the hard cartilage, which is why it hurts less than most people expect. Most piercers use 16 gauge (1.2mm) with a circular barbell or horseshoe ring, and initial healing runs 6–8 weeks at minimum. Full healing of the internal channel takes closer to 6–8 months, so leave the jewelry alone until then. Here’s what’s worth knowing before you book.
What Exactly Gets Pierced?
The septum is the wall of tissue dividing your two nostrils, but the piercing doesn’t go through the hard cartilage. That would be a rougher experience entirely. It goes through the soft tissue just below the cartilage, the spot piercers call the “sweet spot” or columella.
A skilled piercer finds this spot by feel before marking anything. If you pinch the tip of your nose and slide your fingers back, you’ll feel where firm cartilage gives way to soft, flexible tissue. That’s the target.
Not everyone has a well-defined sweet spot. If yours is too thin or sits at an awkward angle, a piercer might shift the placement or advise against the piercing altogether. That’s why an in-person consultation beats guessing from photos online. Still deciding between the two nose placements? Our nostril vs septum breakdown compares them side by side.
Does a Septum Piercing Hurt?
Most people rate it 3–4 out of 10. You’ll feel a quick, sharp pinch, then about two seconds of pressure, and then it’s done. Your eyes will water on reflex as the needle passes near your tear ducts, which isn’t the same thing as intense pain.
Oddly, the clamp your piercer uses beforehand often feels worse than the needle. That cold squeeze against your septum, plus the anticipation, registers as more annoying than the piercing itself for a lot of people.
The cold clamp can also trigger a sneeze reflex. Warn your piercer if you’re prone to sneezing so they can pause at the right moment. Getting pierced mid-sneeze is not the move.
Pain Comparison: Septum vs Other Piercings
| Piercing | Pain (1–10) | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Septum | 3–4 | Soft tissue, not cartilage |
| Nostril | 4–5 | Thicker tissue, more nerves |
| High nostril | 5–6 | Denser cartilage area |
| Helix | 4–6 | Cartilage, slower healing |
| Earlobe | 2–3 | Soft tissue, easy healing |
Healing Timeline: What to Expect
| Phase | Timeframe | What to Expect |
|---|---|---|
| Initial healing | 6–8 weeks | Tenderness, swelling, crusting |
| Swelling subsides | 1–2 weeks | Can usually flip jewelry up |
| Full healing | 6–8 months | Tissue fully remodeled internally; don’t change jewelry until now |
| Jewelry change | 6–8 weeks minimum | Only if healing well, and confirm with your piercer |
During the first week, expect some tenderness and a little bleeding. Clear or whitish-yellow crust around the jewelry is normal lymph fluid, not a sign of infection. A faint odor, the so-called “septum funk,” is also common, since dead skin cells build up in a warm, moist spot. If discharge turns green or yellow and the area feels hot and swollen, that points to infection rather than normal healing.
The surface settles in 6–8 weeks, but full healing takes about 6–8 months. Wait until it’s fully healed before changing jewelry, and have a piercer check it if you’re unsure. Swapping jewelry too early can irritate the channel or drag out healing.
The Piercing Procedure: What Happens
The appointment follows a predictable order:
- Consultation and marking. The piercer examines your anatomy, locates your sweet spot, and marks the entry and exit points with a sterile surgical marker. You check the placement in a mirror.
- Clamp and prep. They apply a sterilized clamp to stabilize the tissue. This feels like pressure and cold metal.
- The piercing. Using a sterile hollow needle (usually 14g or 16g), they pass through the marked spot in one smooth motion. The needle is immediately followed by the jewelry.
- Jewelry insertion. A circular barbell or horseshoe is threaded through. The piercer secures the ends.
- Aftercare instructions. You get verbal and written aftercare guidance. Most reputable studios also provide a saline spray or tell you where to get one.
The whole process takes 5–10 minutes. The piercing itself? About 2 seconds.
Walk away from a few red flags: piercing guns (blunt-force trauma, and impossible to sterilize properly), anyone who refuses to show you their autoclave, or a piercer who seems unsure about finding your sweet spot.
Finding the Right Piercer
Not all piercers are equal when it comes to septums. This one relies on finding the sweet spot by feel, not just by looking. Ask a few questions before booking, and if you want the full vetting checklist, see how to choose a piercer:
- “How many septum piercings have you done this month?” You want someone who does them regularly, not occasionally.
- “Can you show me your autoclave and spore test results?” Proper sterilization is non-negotiable.
- “What jewelry do you use for initial piercings?” They should say implant-grade titanium or solid 14k+ gold.
- “What happens if you can’t find my sweet spot?” A good piercer will be honest if your anatomy isn’t suitable.
Check the APP member directory or ask around local piercing communities for recommendations. Word travels fast in this industry, good and bad.
Jewelry Types, Gauges, and Materials
Standard Sizes
Most septum piercings are done at 16 gauge (1.2mm) with a diameter of 3/8 inch (10mm) or 7/16 inch (11mm). Some piercers prefer 14 gauge (1.6mm) for a slightly thicker look or if you plan to stretch later.
Always confirm your gauge and diameter before buying jewelry. Guessing leads to jewelry that doesn’t fit or falls right out.
Jewelry Styles
Circular Barbell (Horseshoe)
Best for: Initial healing, hiding the piercing
Gauge: 14–16g standard
Diameter: 3/8″ to 1/2″
Notes: Can be flipped up into the nostrils to hide. Two threaded balls unscrew for removal.
Clicker Ring
Best for: Healed piercings
Gauge: 16g most common
Notes: Hinged segment opens and closes with a click. Decorative options range from minimalist to elaborate gem settings. Not recommended for initial healing, since the seam can irritate fresh tissue.
Seamless Ring / Segment Ring
Best for: Healed piercings
Gauge: 16–18g
Notes: No visible closure mechanism. The small gap can snag on healing tissue, so wait until fully healed.
Retainer
Best for: Hiding during healing
Material: Glass or bioplastic
Notes: A clear or flesh-toned U-shaped piece designed specifically for concealment. Useful for work or school.
Materials That Matter
For initial healing, most professional piercers recommend implant-grade titanium (ASTM F136), the same material used in surgical implants. It’s inert, lightweight, and won’t react with your skin.
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Other acceptable options for healed piercings:
- Solid 14k or 18k gold: won’t tarnish, but confirm it’s nickel-free (especially white gold) if you’re sensitive, since many gold alloys use nickel as a hardener.
- Implant-grade stainless steel (316LVM): budget-friendly, but verify nickel content if you have sensitivities.
- Niobium: hypoallergenic, and it can be anodized for color.
Avoid surgical steel (not the same as implant-grade), sterling silver (tarnishes and can stain tissue), and anything coated or plated, since the coating flakes off into the piercing.
Aftercare: The Simple Version
The Association of Professional Piercers now favors pre-made sterile saline over homemade salt soaks. Mixing your own often comes out too salty, which over-dries the tissue and slows healing.
Daily Cleaning Routine
- Wash your hands. Every single time. Dirty hands are the fastest route to infection.
- Spray with sterile saline. Use a wound wash saline (0.9% sodium chloride, no additives). Spray directly on the piercing, inside and outside your nose.
- Let it air dry. Or pat gently with a clean paper towel. Skip cotton balls, since the fibers get caught in the jewelry.
- Leave it alone. No twisting, no rotating, no checking whether it’s healing. Motion just means irritation.
Do this twice daily. Over-cleaning is as bad as under-cleaning. For the full routine that applies across all piercing types, see our piercing aftercare guide.
What to Avoid During Healing
- Alcohol, hydrogen peroxide, Bactine, or antibiotic ointments, which all damage healing tissue
- Swimming pools, hot tubs, lakes, and oceans, all of them bacteria-heavy
- Touching or moving the jewelry unnecessarily
- Makeup, lotions, or sprays near the piercing
- Changing jewelry too early
- Blowing your nose hard; be gentle, or use saline spray to loosen things first
Pros and Cons: The Honest List
| Pros | Cons |
|---|---|
| Easy to hide by flipping the ring up | Visible when flipped down (a workplace consideration for some) |
| Faster healing than cartilage piercings | Placement is technique-dependent, so a bad angle means discomfort |
| Wide jewelry variety once healed | “Septum funk” is real and needs regular cleaning |
| No visible scar if removed | Can make blowing your nose awkward during healing |
| Less painful than most facial piercings | Can draw attention to nose asymmetry |
Stretching Your Septum
Some people want a thicker, more prominent septum ring. Stretching is possible, but it takes patience. Most septums start at 16g or 14g. Common stretch goals are 12g (2mm), 10g (2.5mm), or even 8g (3mm) for a bold look.
The rules for stretching safely:
- Wait until fully healed, a minimum of 6 months and ideally longer
- Stretch one gauge size at a time (16g → 14g → 12g)
- Wait 2–3 months between stretches
- Use implant-grade titanium or glass, since both slide easiest
- If it hurts, stop. Stretching should feel like pressure, not pain
Unlike earlobes, septum tissue is firmer. Going too fast causes tearing and scar tissue. If you’re serious about stretching, work with a piercer who can guide you and supply properly sized jewelry.
Cost: What You’ll Actually Pay
Septum piercings typically run $40–$90 for the piercing service, plus the cost of jewelry. High-quality titanium starter jewelry adds $20–$50. Gold or gem-set pieces cost more.
Cheaper isn’t better. A $20 piercing with a gun and mystery-metal jewelry costs more in the long run once you factor in infections, extended healing, or having to get it redone. Most reputable studios won’t bargain much on price, because they’re paying for proper sterilization equipment, quality jewelry, and trained staff.
Frequently Asked Questions
Does a septum piercing hurt?
Most people rate it 3–4 out of 10. The sweet spot (the soft tissue) has fewer nerve endings than the cartilage above it. You’ll feel a quick pinch and pressure, and most people are surprised it’s over in a second. Your eyes will water, but that’s a reflex, not necessarily from pain.
How long does a septum piercing take to heal?
Initial healing is 6–8 weeks at minimum, but full healing of the septum typically takes 6–8 months. Don’t change your jewelry or ease off aftercare until it’s fully healed. During initial healing, tenderness and some crusting is normal. If you see green or yellow discharge with swelling and heat, see your piercer or a doctor.
Can you hide a septum piercing?
Yes, and that’s one reason septums are popular. A horseshoe barbell can be flipped up inside the nostrils so nothing shows externally. Most people can hide it completely within the first week once initial swelling goes down.
What gauge is a septum piercing?
Standard is 16 gauge (1.2mm). Some piercers use 14 gauge (1.6mm) for a thicker look. Always confirm your gauge before buying jewelry, or the wrong size either won’t fit or will fall out.
What is the best jewelry for a septum piercing?
For initial healing: implant-grade titanium (ASTM F136) circular barbell. Once healed: clickers, seamless rings, or decorative hinged segments. Avoid anything coated, plated, or made of sterling silver for fresh piercings.
Why does my septum piercing smell?
“Septum funk” is dead skin cells and natural oils building up around the jewelry in a warm, moist environment. It’s normal. Regular cleaning with saline keeps it manageable. Switching to glass or wood jewelry (once fully healed) can also help.
Can I get a septum piercing with a deviated septum?
Often yes, but it depends on severity. A skilled piercer can sometimes work around mild deviation. The piercing may draw attention to any asymmetry, so try a faux septum ring first to see how you feel about the look.
How do I flip up my septum piercing?
With a horseshoe barbell, gently pull your upper lip down to expose the piercing, then push the jewelry upward until the balls tuck into your nostrils. It gets easier with practice. Most people can do this comfortably after the first week of healing.
Final Thoughts
The septum lands in a practical middle ground: edgy enough to stand out, easy enough to hide when you need to. It heals faster than cartilage piercings, hurts less than most people fear, and gives you room to swap jewelry once it settles. If you’re building out your look, it pairs well with a nostril piercing or a smiley piercing for a coordinated set.
The rest comes down to finding an experienced piercer who can locate your sweet spot and uses quality jewelry. After that, it’s just the simple aftercare routine and a bit of patience.
Have questions we didn’t cover? Drop them in the comments. And if you’re ready to book, check the APP member directory to find a reputable piercer near you.